Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right kind of coating is crucial. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your project. Too many perfectly great paint jobs deteriorate too soon because the incorrect primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to match the existing layer of paint. If you're painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have all types of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and durability to determine the best coating for the job.
Learn How to Use Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the top surface is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters almost nearly as much as which primers to use. Basically, you will need to use a primer when you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the one time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To make sure of compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top layer made by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to see the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form a solid foundation for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare areas. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coats ends up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. Even though you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in one coat most primers even out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second layer of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a job where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it an even base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand another coating of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his work last. If you live near to ocean water, I recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer pushes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here is a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by minimizing the number of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
Solution for Priming Interior Surfaces and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bathroom, that need a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new structures have enough vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to work with. If the home doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the walls and keeps water from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers may be the answer to priming damp rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, and they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You are able to assure compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, understand that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, especially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are plenty of primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top layer, but old habits are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding marks or roughness.
Priming Solution For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should consider the nature and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Frequently I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect almost all of the trim from dampness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables
Improved Exterior Primers
Even though I prefer latex paint for the outside, I still want to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and trim before it goes on. It's always better to seal all around the wood (however, not the ends) to give each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the hardwood has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a light detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are fairly porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry out. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. When the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially formulated hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Method For Priming Metals
Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough attachment with the surface. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to remove, and may need more than just thinner. Check with your paint store if you would like to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.
You will find primers for every kind of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to totally remove if you don't sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from exposure to air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.
As with any finish, the additional time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much in any way and stay right where they're applied, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when using an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others advise against using any type of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
An old technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.
Primers For Masonry
Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 90 days before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and full of lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it is important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only method to speed up the curing time of cement. You are able to still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches pores and skin!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, especially when you blend the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add drinking water to acid it will splash and burn up anything it contacts. And blend it in the proper ratio, usually 1 to 3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well looked after and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete flooring surfaces in really bad shape should be sandblasted, or you may use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good condition, prep the area and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I recommend a cement stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My inclination is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top coating like latex.
Older, pre-painted concrete floors need to be repainted with a similar top coat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coating requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I would add Penetrol to the primer for an extended lasting bond.
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